|
KANIHAMA
In 1981 when these photos were
made there was only one shawl weaving atelier left in Kashmir. It was
located about 20 miles outside Srinigar, the main city of the Kashmir
territory, in a small village
called Kanihama. I visited there while I was in India and Kashmir collecting
information on Kashmir Shawls and made the photographs that accompany
this section then. This
workshop was a government-sponsored project founded as part of an effort
to stimulate native craft industries.
It was run by Mr. Kanihama (fig.K1), who supervised the
work done by the two resident master weavers, five or six journeyman and
about ten apprentice weavers. They all worked in one large room, the master
weavers acting as teachers for the others. These master weavers produced
the most accomplished pieces but in comparison to those accompanying this
exhibition their work could only be called amateur (fig.K2).
The best pieces produced in Kanihama had warp counts -
the number of foundation threads
per inch - of only 60 to 70 while the shawls illustrated in the Plates
section and the text average
over 200 per inch.
The dyes were mostly modern European chemical ones but
the patterns they were producing in Kanihama were traditional as was
the equipment the weavers were using. From the looms to the spinning devices
everything was antique and appeared to date from the early 19th century.
A miniature painting of a weaver from that time (fig.K3) shows almost
exactly the same scene, compare the loom(fig.K4) with the one in the miniature.
Click figs for larger view
|