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This fragment displays a number of significant design
features but none more so than the central large vase and the flat basin
or water-pot below it. Again a wall decoration(fig.28)
from Jaipur's Amber Palace relates to this iconic image and even hints
at being the model. It is another painted mural from the Ganesh Pol and
not only is there a similar large vase and water-pot but the flowers it
holds are many of the same ones found in the large composite style drawing
this fragment and other shawls display.
This painting provides another smoking gun in speculating
the royal ateliers at Jaipur that were responsible for this painted mural
were also involved in drafting designs for Classic Period Kashmir Shawls
or at least intimately connected with those who were.
Using Irwin's traditional methodology the presence of
a fully developed paisley would consign this shawl to the period circa
1800. However by comparing the border style to shawls of that period it
becomes evident this example was made earlier. In comparison to the all
the previous Plates there is an obvious degeneration and compacting of
the border design but all the elements, flower, leaf and scrolling vine
are still present. The leaf and vine have been stylized almost beyond
recognition and the flower, too, has been altered from the standard crocus
to an unidentifiable bloom. But the form remains true and does not at
all relate to the subsequent version of this border used at the end of
the 18th/early 19th century, if anything it is their prototype.
In fact, the border's generic flower is the same one used
in the panels on many Small Flower Period shawls. Figure
29, a shawl fragment that probably pre-dates this Plate by a decade or
two presents the prototype of this generic flower. The border shows the
standard well articulated crocus, leaf and scrolling vine along with typical
red and white minor border. But the most important element for dating
is the small generic flower in the extremely fragmented panel section.
It retains a distinct leaf structure below the bloom and the last vestiges
of a root, both features found on all Classic Period shawls and rarely
in the SFP.
A number of fragments found in the Rich War Jacket of
Tipu Sultan (figure 29 is not from that grouping) have
the same carefully drawn sprig design. One in particular (fig.30) could
pre-date figure 29, as it has the earliest style of border with remains
of far more realistic root structure. It is, however, inferior in all
other respects. The coarser raw materials and weave, which are readily
apparent from the photos, are responsible for the lack of clarity the
design exhibits.
The possibility it was not made in Kashmir might explain
these shortcomings. The chance some shawl manufactories existed in Northern
India, particularly in Delhi or Jaipur, as well as in the hill counties
of the Punjab are quite strong although, again, no documentation has been
found to verify this. Access to the finest rare goat fibers and skilled
artisans able to work with them was extremely limited and the somewhat
inferior qualities of figure 30, when compared with figure 29 and particularly
this Plate, demonstrate this well. It might be older but surely not better
in any other way.
Plate Eight is far superior in all respects to either
of them regardless of the age issue. The slightly crowded design of flowers
within the paisley outline or the presence of the paisley itself might
be negatively considered by some aficionados. However, the adroit juxtaposition
of so many flowers to create this bouquet and their realism is laudable
and perfectly consistent with a LCP date.
This might appear to some as extreme dating, especially
with the developed paisley outline of the large plant. However the appearance
of the paisley, which is nothing more than a remarkable historical fact,
is not the salient clue dating this shawl, the borders are.
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