|
The unique 'spinning' flowers Plate Seven displays appear
on no other shawl. All the technical and design characteristics, like
the articulate rendering of the crocus border and lively, life-like sprigs
with their spinning flower blooms, imply this is a Late Classic Period
weaving. Again it is another example prefiguring the subsequent Small
Flower Period's layout of multiple rows rather than the more characteristic
large flowering plants. But what is significant for this discussion is
the very specific design nuance, the 'spinning' flower.
The curled bent-in tip carefully articulated for each
one of the 8 flower petals creates this spinning effect and this
exact flower appears on a Mughal carpet (fig.27) in the collection of
the Victoria and Albert Museum. It, like the shawl's version, is unique
and unknown on any other example. Except for the carpet's flower having
six petals and the shawl eight they are identical. This connection needs
no further proof, however, how it came to exist surely does.
Were they made in the same atelier? Was the same designer
responsible for both weavings?
Unfortunately for the present time answering these questions
is impossible but perhaps forensic analysis will one day enable enough
evidence to be secured to positively answer these and many other intriguing
comparisons.
Often when early shawls were damaged through use they
were cut down and re-used as patka, a term describing a scarf or what
we might call a muffler. No doubt that is what happened as the size of
the remaining fragment, 15 by 10 inches, and the re-applied original borders
that now surround all four sides are typical.
Patka were smaller versions of the standard man's wearing
shawl with two decorated end panels, an undecorated large diapered area
between them and a border surrounding the entire area of the shawl. Not
all of them were made from re-used shawl cloth, most were newly made using
a number of different weaving techniques, not only 2X2 tapestry-twill.
They were woven in both silk and various woolen mixtures. Like the long
or square man's wearing shawl, patka were an important part of traditional
dress and as status items both could reveal the wearer's social position
and, at times, courtly rank.
Again the question appears as to whether or not having
fragments of an earlier shawl, either as inner lining for a garment like
in Tipu's case or having a patka like Plate Seven could have bestowed
or granted any metaphysical or spiritual power to the bearer. One thing
is sure, those who were able to afford a coat like Tipu's or a patka like
Plate Seven were not motivated by financial concerns, they chose to have
these articles made with re-used, damaged materials.
|