Of particular interest to this discussion is figure 42's border (fig.43). It does not appear to be the original and, as a silk warp was used for the sides as well as the top and bottom, this is almost certain. Also stylistically this shawl pre-dates the early 19th century when such a border design was in vogue. This border does demonstrate the final progression to complexity we have discussed in previous Plate descriptions. Notice the inclusion of the rose and a small but fully developed paisley, which comes a long way from the simple crocus and scrolling vine found on Classic Period shawls.

The progression of border styles was the most stable facet of the Kashmir shawl. Over the 200 plus years from the Early Classic Period (circa1650-1750) to the Small Flower Period (circa 1750-1800) and finally to the Transitional Period (circa 1800-1850) border designs underwent drastic changes. But these changes were synched with each period of the shawl production. This fact allows their being used as the most accurate means to date shawls, both relatively and absolutely.

Shawls like this Plate and figure 42 are anomalies made when the small sprig and larger paisley outlined composite flower plant designs were the norm. Some of those shawls are beautiful in their own right but they could never compare with the others illustrated in this exhibition. This survey concentrates exclusively on the early masterpieces of Kashmir weaving and this is the reason no others of this later period have been included. The bibliography contains a number of reference books and any interested readers will be able to find photos of some of these later shawls illustrated in them.