Plate Thirteen  

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A miniature painting (fig.40) shows the Emperor, Akbar II, receiving several courtiers, one of them wearing a chand-dar shawl over his shoulders. Figure 40.1 is a detail showing the shawl more distinctly. Another chand-dar (fig.41), which would date some decades later than this Plate, looks almost as if it could have been the one in the miniature. The small trefoil design in the field, as well as in the medallion, is a generic flower like Plate Thirteen's. However it is even less botanically correct and therefore can be dated somewhat later, circa 1810. The less traditional and more complex border would also not be found on a late 18th century shawl.

This fits nicely with the more positive date we can give to the chand-dar in the miniature painting. Akbar II ruled from 1806-1837 and this painting appears to have been done circa 1810-1815.

Soon after the first decade of the 19th century, an increasing number of square shawls were produced to satisfy western commercial demand. Only a small percentage of these were chand-dar and as time marched on more and more of the square shawl destined for Western shores had new, non-traditional designs. Most of them were based on the same European designs that were used for long shawls produced during this time-period.

The chand-dar made after 1825, like the majority of long or other square shawls, rarely have the quality of materials, design or weave the late 18th century ones, like those illustrated here, demonstrate. Few if any were made after 1850 when the chand-dar style seems to have fallen from favor in Europe and Kashmir.