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A miniature painting (fig.40) shows the Emperor, Akbar
II, receiving several courtiers, one of them wearing a chand-dar shawl
over his shoulders. Figure 40.1 is a detail showing the shawl more distinctly.
Another chand-dar (fig.41), which would date some decades later than this
Plate, looks almost as if it could have been the one in the miniature.
The small trefoil design in the field,
as well as in the medallion, is a generic flower like Plate Thirteen's.
However it is even less botanically correct and therefore can be dated
somewhat later, circa 1810. The less traditional and more complex border
would also not be found on a late 18th century shawl.
This fits nicely with the more positive date we can give
to the chand-dar in the miniature painting. Akbar II ruled from 1806-1837
and this painting appears to have been done circa 1810- 1815.
Soon after the first decade of the 19th century, an increasing
number of square shawls were produced to satisfy western commercial demand.
Only a small percentage of these were chand-dar and as time marched on
more and more of the square shawl destined for Western shores had new,
non-traditional designs. Most of them were based on the same European
designs that were used for long shawls produced during this time-period.
The chand-dar made after 1825, like the majority of long
or other square shawls, rarely have the quality of materials, design or
weave the late 18th century ones, like those illustrated here, demonstrate.
Few if any were made after 1850 when the chand-dar style seems to have
fallen from favor in Europe and Kashmir.
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