Plate Twelve  

Plate Navigation


The addition of several new motifs to the border design is also pertinent to this discussion. It demonstrates the final stage of the progression from the simple Early Classic Period one to the complex form seen here (fig.38). No longer is the crocus or the later generic small flower and leaf shown within a scrolling vine pattern. These have been replaced by a new version featuring different flowers, an accentuated tri-partite arrangement of long slender leaves and remnants of the scrolling vine. By the way, the distinct drawing style of the leaves is quite similar to earlier model we noticed on Plate Four and any suggestion it was the prototype for those here might not be too far off the mark.

The traditional red and white alternating minor border has also been changed and a new, highly styled series of alternating black and gold rampart-like designs now take their place.
Additionally Plate Twelve's side borders, unlike the bottom and the missing top one that were done on the same woolen warps as the body of the shawl, were woven on a silk warp. This is very unusual, rarely appearing on shawls until after 1800. If the side border on Plate 11 is original it, too, would be a very early use of this style and silk warp.

Often the side borders found on early shawls are replacements that were added because the originals became damaged through use and age. Often these were woven on a silk warp to add a bit of extra weight and stiffness making the shawl hang better when worn. But this was not the case here notice the side and end borders have exactly the same design, materials (except warp) and proportions. Naturally when they were replaced, the materials and proportions rarely if ever match the original, even when new ones were re-woven expressly as copies.