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The addition of several new motifs to the border design
is also pertinent to this discussion. It demonstrates the final stage
of the progression from the simple Early Classic
Period one to the complex form seen here (fig.38). No longer is the crocus
or the later generic small flower and leaf shown within a scrolling vine
pattern. These have been replaced by a new version featuring different
flowers, an accentuated tri-partite arrangement of long slender leaves
and remnants of the scrolling vine. By the way, the distinct drawing style
of the leaves is quite similar to earlier model we noticed on Plate Four
and any suggestion it was the prototype for those here might not be too
far off the mark.
The traditional red and white alternating minor border
has also been changed and a new, highly styled series of alternating black
and gold rampart-like designs now take their place.
Additionally Plate Twelve's side borders, unlike the bottom and the missing
top one that were done on the same woolen warps as the body of the shawl,
were woven on a silk warp. This is very unusual, rarely appearing on shawls
until after 1800. If the side border on Plate 11 is original it, too,
would be a very early use of this style and silk warp.
Often the side borders found on early shawls are replacements
that were added because the originals became damaged through use and age.
Often these were woven on a silk warp to add a bit of extra weight and
stiffness making the shawl hang better when worn. But this was not the
case here notice the side and end borders have exactly the same design,
materials (except warp) and proportions. Naturally when they were replaced,
the materials and proportions rarely if ever match the original, even
when new ones were re-woven expressly as copies.
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