The accretion of more and more flowers into the composite style does appear to have been part of the stylistic developments that turned the flowering plant into a paisley. Was this purposefully done or did it just happen? This is an intriguing question and one that goes directly to the core of any analysis of the Kashmir shawl post-1750. It would be hard to imagine, let alone substantiate, this happening as a conscious movement since the number of workshops and ateliers were many and too widely spread.

Is it possible a small group of premier designers worked in concert or perhaps in competition to create new styles based on the traditional ones? Was this how thealignment seen here developed? Is the gentle but pronounced left curve and the addition of that tipping generic blossom(fig.33) that presages the fully developed paisley, which will monopolize the post-1800 period, part of this effort? The similarity of the designs and the limited number of elements used in the period 1775-1800 suggest affirmative answers to these questions.

The fact the side border differs from the ones above and below the large panel area usually means one or both are replacements. However it appears this may not be the case here. The side border is atypical and, although it is most likely woven on a silk warp, the narrow size is unusual. Also the new assortment of flowers, which is typical for post 1800 silk warp borders, is rarely found in this narrow format. In any event they date this shawl to the last quarter of the 18th century.

The last vestiges of the crocus can still be recognized when the border above and below the panel is carefully examined. But it is hardly noticeable and overpowered by the large generic flower. Also the leaf has been abstracted and reduced to only a small blue triangle.

The side border, which seems to be original, may actually be a very well done re-woven addition but there is no question about the design composition. Aspects of the silk warp borders will be mentioned further in the following Plate description.