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Comparing them provides a convenient window to see into
the collective mind-set of the shawl industry just prior to the real beginning
of its downfall and self-destruction. Like buildings that somehow manage
to stand after an earthquake while all those around them were reduced
to rubble an extremely limited number of shawl designers and weavers were
able to continue to produce traditional masterworks even though degeneration,
commercialism and change were accelerating everywhere else.
Granted Plates Ten and Eleven could never be rightfully
compared to those made in the Classic Period, even in the fragmented states
we find them in today. But as statements reflecting their own time period
these two shawls reign supreme.
Plate Ten has some of the realistic and remarkable wind-blown
appearance Plate Two captures. As a matter of fact several factors point
to the possibility they might be directly related. First, notice how each
of lower leaves, as well as some of the others, in Plate Two
were depicted as bi-colored (fig.31). Then notice this detail was repeated
on Plate Ten and Eleven. There should be no doubt this is a highly unusual
feature and it very significant, as few other examples exist.
Another more common but still infrequently used design
element are the finials Plates Ten(fig.32), and Plate Eleven(fig.33) have
at the very top of their uppermost flowers. Plate Two initiates the use
of this element(fig.34)
and this Plate revives its rare tri-partite style rather than the more
common one Plate Eleven shows. These finials, especially the tripartite
version can be traced back to their root as an integral part of the architectural
efforts to create a dome.
The first domes in India as well as elsewhere were most
likely made of bamboo or wood and the finial which can
be seen atop most brick and stone examples is the vestigial remains of
the caps that used to keep the separate bamboo or wood poles in place.
These finials like the vestigial caps served no purpose nor did they add
to the design in any way. Their presence on these and other shawls must
have held some symbolic meaning besides being reminders of the past.
A rather curious feature found in Plate Ten's design is
the small pair of undulating leaf forms jutting out from both sides of
the hillock (fig.35). Plate Six's earlier and far more evocative version
of this undulating leaf was most probably the source for their inclusion.
Again Plate Ten falls into the revivalist period and it should come as
no surprise to see an element like this reused.
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